Do’s and Dont’s of fitting Marvel Flowguard™
- Install product according to Marvel’s installation instructions and follow recommended safe work practices.
- Keep Pipe and Fittings in original packaging until needed and store pipes in covered areas.
- Use tools designed for use with plastic pipe and fittings.
- Cut-off minimum 25 mm beyond the edge of the crack in case any crack is discovered on the pipe.
- Pipe may be cut quickly and efficiently by several methods. Wheel-type plastic tubing cutters are preferred. Ratchet type cutters or fine tooth saws are another option. However, when using the ratchet cutter, be certain to score the exterior wall by rotating the cutter blade in a circular motion around the pipe. Do this before applying significant downward pressure to finalize the cut. This step leads to a square cut. In addition, make sure ratchet cutter blades are sharp. Cutting tubing as squarely as possible provides optimal bonding area within a joint.
- Burrs and filings can prevent proper contact between the tube and fittings during assembly, and should be removed from the outside and inside of the tube. A chamfering tool is preferred, but a pocket knife or file is also suitable for this purpose.
- Use FlowGuard™ Solvent Cement only conforming to ASTM F 493 or joint failure may result.
- Always conduct hydraulic pressure testing after installation to detect any leaks and faults. Wait for appropriate cure time before pressure testing. Fill lines slowly and bleed air from the system prior to pressure testing.
- Rotate the pipe 90° to 180° to spread the FlowGuard™ Solvent Cement evenly in the joint while pushing the Pipe into Fitting.
- Use Teflon tapes with threaded fittings. However before using paste or pipe dope, it is better to check with the manufacturer as some of these pastes or dopes may contain solvents incompatible with CPVC.
- Ensure that there are no sharp edges in contact with the pipe while embedding the pipes on the walls or in the floors. When making a transition connection to metal threads, use a special transition fitting or CPVC male threaded adapter whenever possible. Do not over-torque plastic threaded connections. Head tight plus one-half turn should be adequate.
- Provide Vertical & Horizontal Supports as recommended to avoid stress on the joint(s).
- Apply a water-based only paint on exposed pipes & fittings.
- Visually inspect all joints for proper cementing at the end of shift or day. A Visual inspection of the complete system is also recommended during pressure testing.
- When connecting to a gas water heater, CPVC tubing should not be located within 50 cm of the flue. For water heaters lacking reliable temperature control, this distance may be increased up to 1m. A metal nipple or flexible appliance connector should be utilized. This measure eliminates the potential for damage to plastic piping that might result from excessive radiant heat from the flue.
- Use of a brass/CPVC transition adapter when connecting CPVC to a water heater will help facilitate water heater replacement in the future.
- Insulate hot water pipe exposed to atmosphere.
- Do not Use Metal Hooks or Nails to support / hold or put pressure on the pipes. Do not use straps & hangers with rough or sharp edges. Do not over tighten the straps on the pipes.
- Never expose the pipe to open flame while trying to bend it.
- Do not drop pipes on edges from heights. Do not drop heavy objects on pipes or walk on pipes.
- Do not dilute Solvent Cement with Thinners /MTO or any other liquid etc.
- Do not use air or gases for pressure testings.
- Do not use any other petroleum or solvent- based sealant, adhesive, lubricant or fire stop material on CPVC pipes and fittings.
- Do not use CPVC Pipes & Fittings for pneumatic applications.
- Do not use plastic threaded fittings for hot water above 60°C.